Panch Kedar Yatra
The Panch Kedar Trail is situated in the north-western state of Uttarakhand. It may be called part of the age old Char Dham trip to Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath. As the name Kedar says these 5 spots are dedicated to Shiva. While in the earlier days people would walk up to the region from all of India, it is now much easier accessible through an extensive network of roads.
As the legend goes, in the Mahabharata, while on their Himalayan pilgrimage, the Pandavas decided to pay homage to Lord Shiva. But Lord Shiva was not interested in meeting them as they were guilty of gotra hatya (killing their brethren). Seeing the Pandavas coming, the Lord disguised himself as a bull. But the Pandavas saw through Shiva's disguise. Realizing that his disguise had not worked the bull tried to plunge himself beneath the ground. But Bhima was swift and held on the hind legs of the bull, thus preventing it from vanishing. In the struggle that ensued different parts of Lord Shiva's body appeared at various places in Kedarkhand. While the forehead showed up at Pashupatinath in Katmandu, the hump of the bull fell at Kedarnath, the torso including the navel at Madhmaheshwar, the arms at Tungnath, the face at Rudranath, and the matted hair at Kalpeshwar. The Panch Kedar trek includes all the five shrines associated with the legend in Kedarkhand. All of them are situated in the Kedar Valley.
Covers: Rishikesh - Kedarnath - Madmaheshwar - Tungnath - Rudranath - Kalpeshwar - Rishikesh
Grade: High Altitude Mild Trek
Season: Summer
Duration: Approx 15 days
Kedarnath
Kedarnath is a Hindu holy town located in the Uttarakhand state of India. In a scenic spot, at an altitude of 3,584 m at the origin of the river Mandakini, the shrine of Kedarnath is most venerated amongst the Hindu pilgrims. Kedarnath is accessible only after a steep 13 km trek through a paved path (horses or palanquins are available for rent) from Gaurikund, which is connected by road from  Rishikesh, Haridwar, Dehradun and other important hill stations of the Garhwal and Kumaon regions in Uttarakhand.
Kedar is another name of Lord Shiva (and the name for a stone rounded by years long travel in Ganga). There are more than 200 shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva in Chamoli district itself, the most important being Kedarnath. Kedarnath is also one of the twelve Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva.
There are places en route like Janglechatti, Rambara and Garurchatti where the weary can rest a while or spend the night. Just one kilometer before Rambara is a high and beautiful cascading waterfall which crashes down the heights.
 As one approaches from Garurchatti, the magnificent Sri Kedarnath temple is visible on advancing barely half a kilometer. With the stunning background of towering white mountains mantled with snow, the temple presents an enchanting sight. All around it is an aura of peace and purity. Here, the unholy are said to become holy and the holy, holier still.
The temple is magnificent in its style and architecture. It is built on a morainic ridge grom the snowy Kedarnath range.
The present temple, built in the 8th century by Adi Shankaracharya, stands adjacent to the site of an earlier temple built by the Pandavas. The inner walls of the assembly hall are decorated with figure of various deities and scenes from ancient mythology. Outside the temple door a large statue of the Nandi Bull stands as guard. Built of extremely large, heavy and evenly cut grey slabs of stones, it evokes wonder as to how these heavy slabs had been handled in the earlier days. The temple has a  Garbha Griha for worship and a Mandap, apt for assemblies of pilgrims and visitors. A conical rock formation inside the temple is worshipped as Lord Shiva in his Sadashiva form.
The place remained close from November to April due to heavy snowfall and the temple is submerged under the snow. (read the news at 4dham.com for exact opening days).
Besides its affiliation with Shiva, Kedarnath is also believed to be the site of Shankaracharya's samadhi. The actual temple is an impressive stone edifice of unknown date. No specific family of pujaris supervises rituals at Kedarnath, which focus around veneration of the stone lingam that rests in the inner sanctum of the temple.
Tungnath
Tungnath Temple in Chamoli district of Garhwal, is situated about 12,000 ft or 2900 m above sea-level. It is revered as the arm or bahu in the Panch Kedar tradition of Hinduism. 
Enroute exotic varieties of rhododendrons, white flowers and shrub like trees can be seen in abundance. It is at a four kilometer trek from Chopta which is situated on the Gopeshwar - Ukhimath road about 40 km from Gopeshwar at an altitude of 2900 m. Chopta itself provided a breathtaking view of the Himalayan ranges and surrounding areas. From Tungnath another 2 kms trek takes you to the top Chandrashila from where all the major peaks like Chaukhamba, Trishuli, Nanda Devi, Kailash etc. are visible at very short distances.
Set in the midst of temperate forests, the origins of the temple is shrouded in myths and legends. It is believed that the temple was built by the Pandavas to appease Lord Shiva, who was enraged by the carnage wrecked on the battlefield of Kurukshetra during the Mahabharata war.
The local tales and beliefs are associated with the Mahabharata and the adventures of the Pandaves when they were in exile. It is considered that the Pandavas felt guilty of having killed their own kith and kin after the great battle ot kurukshetra. They needed the blessings of lord Shiva for their redemption. Lord Shiva was not willing and so eluded them. The place Guptkashi is where he disappeared or became gupt. He took refuge at Kedarnath in the form of Bull. Being followed by the Pandavs, he dived into the ground leaving his hump on the surface. The eldest brother Yudishter built a temple and worshiped. The remaining portion of god reappeared at four other places. The Head appeared at Pashupatinath which is in Nepal, the thighs appeared at Tungnath where Arjuna built a temple and worshiped, the middle portion at Madmaheshwar where Bhima built a temple, and the lock with head at Kalpeshwar where Nakula worshipped.
For those trekking to Tungnath, Chopta (8,000 ft) is the base camp. Chopta, also called the Cherrapunji of Uttarakhand as it receives heavy rainfall, can be approached from Rishikesh through Rudraprayag and Chamoli. Though the trek from Chopta to Tungnath is barely 3.5 km long, one ascends a compelling 3,000 ft with wild rhododendrons, chirping birds and awesome nature for company. An alternate route begins at Ukhimath on the Badri - Kedar route.
On reaching Tungnath, the tree-line gives way to alpine plants, such as bugyals, strewn with tiny wildflowers. Apart from its religious significance for Hindus, Tungnath is an ideal getaway for stressed-out souls. The sanctity of the region of Tungnath is considered unsurpassed. The peak of Tungnath is the source of three springs that form the river Akashkamini. A little away from Tungnath Temple is the shrine of Chandrashila or the `moon mountain'. The trek to Chandrashila is replete with panoramic views of the Himalayas on one side and the valleys of Garhwal on the other. The entire journey and the shine are located in some of the finest most picturesque pockets of the Himalayas.
The temple is magnificent in its style and architecture. The temple's dome spans 16 doors housing an idol of Adi Guru Shankaracharya alongside the lingam. The Nanda Devi Temple is also situated at Tungnath. The awe-inspiring Akashlinga waterfall so called because the water looks as though this descending from heaven, is nearby. During the month of winter, the priests move to Mukunath, 12 miles away from Shiva Temple of Tungnath.
Tungnath is about 30 km from Ukhimath, home to the learned Pandas or priests of Kedarnath.
Season
May and June are ideal for treks. For a more picturesque trip, you might want to try August and September, after the rains have travelled on and the flowers are in full bloom. During winter, November to March, the weather is so rough that even the locals migrate to the lower reaches of the Himalayas. From a religious point of view, the monsoons are the ideal time to offer obeisance to Lord Shiva.
Transport
You can take a bus or taxi from Rishikesh via Rudraprayag and Chamoli to reach Chopta, the base camp for the trek to Tungnath. Another approach is via Ukhimath and Doggalbitta on the Badri-Kedar route. From Chopta, a 3.5-km trek brings you to Tungnath Temple.
Local transport: Three-wheeler and the local vikrams.
Accomodation
The Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) runs more than 60 tourist guest houses in this region. The rates tend to go up in the peak season from mid-April to June-end. Since accommodation is limited, it is advisable to book well in advance.
For bookings contact:
The Public Relations Officer,
Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam,
Chandralok Building, 36, Janpath, New Delhi.
Tel: 011-3326620, 3322251, 3711296. or The Garhwal Mandal Tourism,
Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd.,
74/1 Rajpur Road,
Dehradun
Kalpeshwar
Kalpeshwar, or Kalpnath is another place associated with the Panch Kedar. It is believed that Lord Shiva's matted dreadlocks, visible on the rock face that curves overhead to make the cave, were all that were glimpsed of him when he was eluding the Pandavas who sought his darshan to gain forgiveness for killing their kin in the epic battle of the Mahabharat.
Located on the Bank of river Kalpeshwar the temple of Kalpeshwar offers tourists and pilgrims a fascinating view of the nature all around. It is a favourite spot for sages who come here to meditate. Legend has it that the sage Arghya had performed austerities here and created the nymph, Urvashi.
Rishi Durvasa is also believed to have meditated here under the wish-fulfilling tree, Kalpavriksha. The sage had given Kunti the boon that she could invoke any of the forces of nature and they would appear before her and grant whatever she desired. Known for his quick temper, Rishi Durvasa is often recalled in context of the incident when, along with several disciples, he visited Kunti's sons, while they were in exile. He indicated that he and his disciples expected food. There was not a grain to cook. An anxious Draupadi's prayers were answered by Lord Krishna who appeared and miraculously solved the problem.
Pilgrims pray at the small rock temple at the height of 2134 m before the matted tresses of Shiva enshrined in rock in the sanctum sanctorum. The sanctum is preceded by a natural cave passage. Surrounded by thick forests and terraced fields in the Urgam valley, the temple is reached following a 1 kms. long trek. 
Transport
The place is about a 12 km trek off the main road of Alaknanda. 2 km before Kalpeshwar is the village of Urgam.
Air: Jolly Grant, Dehradun, km is the nearest airport. Rishikesh 55 Km is the nearest railhead.
Buses, Taxis are available till Helang, 243 km on the Rishikesh Badrinath road. From Helang, Kalpehswar is a 1 kms. trek off the main road.
Rudranath
The face of Shiva is worshipped at Rudranath. The temple of Rudranath at 2,286 mts. entails trekking through ridges at almost twice that height before reaching the meadow where it is located.
Devotees come to Rudranath to offer ritual obeisance to their ancestors, for it is here, at Vaitarani river (the water of salvation), that the souls of the dead cross when changing world. It is 23 km from Gopeshwar, 5 km of the distance is motorable and the rest 18 km trek. The trek passes through wild orchards & picturesque bugyals and invloves trekking over high ridges. The temple is surrounded by a number of pools - Surya Kund, Chandra Kund, Tara Kund, Manas Kund etc.- while the great peaks of Nanda Devi, Trishul & Nanda Ghunti rear overhead. 
Anusuya Devi temple is located on the trek to Rudranath involving an additional trek of 3 kms.
Transport
Air: Nearest airport is Jolly Grant, Dehradun, 258km.
Rail: The nearest railhead, Rishikesh is 241 km.
Road: Rudranath is located on Gopeshwar-Kedarnath Road. From Rishikesh, the entry point, Sagar is 219 km. A 22-km trek from Sagar will end at Rudranath.
Accommodation is available at the dharamshala.
Madyamaheshwar
The Shiva Temple near the source of the Madmaheshwar river is the second Kedar. Administered by sole Pujari and assisted by volunteers of Panwar family of the village Gaundar, the temple is looked after by the Kedarnath Trust. During the six months of winter only the shivling remains inside the temple whereas the silver idols are taken ceremonially to Ukhimath for worhsip. The place known as Saraswati Kund where parpanas are offered, is nearby. It is said that, after disappearing at Kedarnath, the navel of Lord Shiva reappeared here at Madmaheshwar. Shiva is worshipped here in the form of a navel-shaped lingam. Located at the base of Chaukhamba peak at an altitude of 3289 m the classic temple architecture belongs to the North-Indian style.
So sanctified is the water here that even a few drops are considered sufficient for ablution. The natural scenery is dramatically wild, with deep gorges and valleys, mountain sides flung upwards towards the skies, the forests where the snow lies thick in winter, only to be replaced by a carpet of greenery in the summer. Kedarnath and Neelkanth peaks ate visible from here, the entire ring of mountains associated with the life and times of Shiva. The confluence of Madmaheshwar Ganga just short of the temple, is one of the prettiest spots in the region. The best statue of Har Gauri in India, measuring over a metre high is found in the Kali temple.
Season
There are 2 seasons to undertake this adventure. The 3 summer months and the 2 post monsoon months. After Diwali, till about advent of summer, the temple is inaccessible due to snow. During this period, the Shiva idol is worshipped at Ukhimath.
Trek
From Hardwar it takes about 4 hours by jeep to Srinagar, the former capital of Pauri Garhwal. Thereafter, after a couple of jeep hops, reach Mansuna, via Rudraprayag and Ukhimath.
Mansuna is the ideal base for the trip to Madhyamaheshwar. After a good nights sleep wake up early to view the distant Chaukhamba peaks. After breakfast set off on a 2 km short-cut to Jugasu, 5 kms from Mansuna. A little ahead the Nath river, originating at Tungnath, meets the Madhyamaheshwar Ganga. That river will be traced through the next days.
After crossing the Jugasu bridge, you'll pass women carrying headloads of hay, an occasional sight on the way. After a steep climb over mostly rocky terrain for about 1.5 km reach Raonli, Nandan Singh's village, where some 350 families apparently reside. Pass terraced farms and skirt the village of Uniana. Cover the 6 km distance from Jugasu to Ransi, 1400 m above sea-level. In 1998, a terrible landslide buried several villages, killing many people and livestock, uprooting trees and homes and leaving barren hillsides and tragedy in its wake.
The scenery is breathtaking with some 10 - 15 waterfalls en route. After about 6 kms. of descent, a painstakingly climb of the remaining km to reach Gondha.
Wake next morning to the sound of the gushing waters of the Madhyamaheshwar Ganga flowing a few meters below. After breakfast, start the second day of the trek. Half a km from Gondhar, is the confluence of the rivers Chaukhamba and Madhyamaheshwar Ganga. The scenery is beautiful and wild but a mere precursor of the picturesque mountainscape to follow beyond Bantoli, officially under the aegis of the forest department. Walking through the Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary, a part of one of the world's richest biosphere reserves, the next halt in the day's ascent is at Khatara. From Khatara, maneuver the steep, rocky climb of 2 km in 2 hours to reach Nanu at 2100 metres. After lunch we climb another 1,200 m over 5 and a half kms to cover the most beautiful terrain on the trek. The valley here is incredibly narrow and steep, providing breathtaking views of the opposite side of the canyon, tree and shrub lined all the way to the top.
There is a solitary hut at Makhouma, midway between Nanu and Madhyamaheshwar. In the late afternoon, early evening, you may spot wild fowl, glimps the hitherto elusive snow capped peaks on the other side of the valley and enjoy the variety of mountain flowers and dense oak and deodar forests.
Next morning, wake up early to walk up the gentle mountain slope, with it's incredible valley of flowers. Reportedly, there are over 100 species of wild flowers that are found here. After an ascent of some three fourths of a kilometer, the snow peaked caps of the majestic Chaukhamba suddenly appear. Further up there is the beatific sight of a lake on top of the mountain, called Budha Maheshwar. The view of the snow capped Chaukhamba and its reflection in the lake is simply mind blowing. Returned to offer puja at the temple to the chanting of mantras by the priest.
The priest at the Madhyamaheshwar shrine is from the Rawal sect of Brahmins, who have traditionally been the Pujaris here.
See Also
- Badrinath
- Yamunotri
- Gangotri
- Uttaranchal Information Centre
- Online photogallery Char Dham yatra by ksamaddar
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